Saturday 22 February 2020

Friday 21 February 2020 – Aourir to Mirhleft

Aourir to Mirhleft - 103 miles
Earlyish start to a cold van but when we opened the door the wind had got up and it was very warm, coming straight off the desert. Breakfast, finish packing and servicing the van then paying the man. Nellie was having a tantrum this morning and wouldn't play, but we're only going to Agadir for now and we know the way. Quite busy as usual as we drove more or less along the seafront, the nicer part of the city, to the large Marjane hypermarket to top up the supplies as it's probably the last chance for a while. Got some more cash and also called at a pharmacy for something to ease Brens cough, which refuses to go away (Murphy's Law – since we bought it she hasn't coughed once, but it'll be there in the medicine box).

An early lunch in the carpark before programming Sidi Ifni into TomTom and heading off into an afternoon that had become very warm indeed, not helped by no aircon, and mostly straight into the sun which, however, at these latitudes is actually quite high in the sky so not quite as bad as it could have been. There has been some new road building to the south of Agadir which TomTom knew all about and took us on what appeared to be quite a circuitous route, but was obviously much faster than before as we avoided a few known bottlenecks and were soon bowling along down the N1, for now an excellent dual carriageway. It soon became much quieter, but of course Friday is a “weekend” for Muslims so not unexpected, and eventually returned to a single carriageway.

The scenery was now becoming more of what we are used to seeing, that is miles and miles of scrubland with the occasional patch of cultivation and, of course, herds of goats being grazed on the sides of the road. The temperature was steadily getting higher and the tyre pressure monitor kept complaining whilst we were more concerned that Jamie, although shaded from direct sun, was maybe getting a little too warm as he was panting a bit, even with as much ventilation as we could being directed to him. We did consider a stop but there was really nowhere in the shade to walk him so just carried on, checking every few minutes.

The Anti-Atlas Mountain range became visible in the haze and before long we were entering Tiznit, a large town situated on a main crossroads, once again passing through one of the numerous police road blocks which are a feature of most towns of any size. You have to slow right down and be ready to stop but we've always been waved through – although occasionally the policeman will leave it right until the last second and we've nearly come to a standstill. We're sure they sometimes like to make a game of it!

It was here that we decided that, although Sidi Ifni was easily reachable, we'd heard reports that the campsites were very busy so instead changed our target to a site we'd stayed on for a week last year just past Mirhleft, Erkounte Park, where we were confident there would be plenty of room. The road ran towards the coast from here through the western end of the Anti-Atlas mountains, a lovely run through green valleys and hills on an excellent surface. At the coast we turned south before entering Mirhleft and wondering what was going on.

From about two miles away we started to encounter groups of Moroccan ladies dressed in their finery walking towards the town, which became more and more crowded. From a little way away we could see that the centre of town was absolutely heaving, the roadsides full of parked cars and even more folk heading in. Eventually we were reduced to a crawl, trying to avoid pedestrians who just wandered into our path without a care, and oncoming vehicles whose drivers were obviously trying to find somewhere to park. At one point we came to a complete standstill surrounded by the crowd and worried about trying to get through without hurting anyone, but then the familiar whistles brought a trio of policemen who managed to open up a path for us and we were through. We can only surmise it was some sort of festival but will ask at the campsite. (Later - yes a big religious festival).

We thought a short video of the scene would prove interesting to our readers but when we came to download it from the dashcam we discovered that nothing has been recorded onto the simcard for twelve months! So we're very sorry that we can't show you the scene, and now have something else to sort out! Oh the joys of motorhoming!

But the good news was that there was, as expected, plenty of room at the campsite. Abdullah, the owner, remembered us from last year (yes we're sure he was genuine) and once the paperwork was done invited us to park anywhere. There's been a few improvements since last year, some new facilities and now all the very roomy pitches have been marked out and numbered to avoid the overspill that was common last year. Only about half full, we learned from Funster friends who had been here a few days that it had in fact been very busy right up until this morning when a large number moved off. We later thought we knew why..............

So once again settle in and chairs out to enjoy the late afternoon sun. There was a nice cool breeze which, after the heat of the day, was very welcome, not least by Jamie who didn't seem to have suffered any ill effects and polished off a huge supper later. A brief chat with our friends then a quiet evening. We'll probably stay here a few days then maybe a quick visit to Sidi Ifni before heading into the mountains. The weather forecast is for hot sunshine but a serious chance of very strong winds on Sunday.

Footnote posted Saturday.

Woken during the night by a very strong offshore wind that had got up and was rocking the van about. Fortunately the only thing left out was the mat and that just folded itself up against the van. This wind continued until the sun had got up properly when it suddenly dropped. For those with some weather knowledge it was most likely the land/sea effect – once the land heated up the winds reversed and we were left with a pleasant onshore breeze.

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